gorillas in the mist

mountain passes, no problem for our rally driving guide!

after our busy time in South Africa and then a short burst in Uganda we made the most of some down time and ventured out on a 'road trip' which would take in some of the most stunning scenery in middle eastern Africa and allow us to experience something quite special in wildlife terms, that of being able to spend an hour with a family of mountain gorillas.

we had been planning this trip for quite some time and it was to be part of my (Tim's) elongated 50th birthday celebrations, which shouldn't actually take place until the date in August should we make it that far! Joining myself and Maz on the 'road trip' was our good friend and fellow ex-Village of Hopeer (is that a word?), Emma Podmore, who we'd joined in Kampala to share our Leadership principles to the team that she is now serving with at 'Revelation Life'.

our trip started in Kampala, the somewhat haphazard capital of a 'landlocked' country termed 'the pearl of africa' by former British Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill. I say haphazard in the way that the whole city is spread out along the northern shores of the mighty Lake Victoria, sitting atop many hills which provide challenges in both road infrastructure and suitable building plots. I could expand but that maybe a topic for another blog or poem at some later date.

we followed the road east out of the crazy Kampala traffic, another haphazard feature which could extend into further ramblings, towards our first point of call, the evocative 'equator', the centre of our world, a line spanning around 25,000 miles, passing through 11 countries, ten bodies of water (including oceans, seas and lakes!) and water was the feature that we will most remember about our first crossing of this 'line', yes it was pouring down. we bailed into the local 'cafe', obviously some kind of tourist mecca by the looks of the prices on the menu, and had brunch of Rolex and chapati chips with an avocado dip, watching the skies drop what would seem their whole contents onto this little part of africa we were inhabiting at that moment. I thought the equator was going to be hot and sunny!

just chilling

back into the vehicle, which was to be our home for most of the trip and turned out to be an incredibly versatile beast, suitably drenched but fed and watered and continued onward eastwards towards Mbarara and lunch. 

we'd all taken up our comfy positions in the MPV, Maz and Emma in the middle row and myself laying across the backseats trying to protect my back, but what with the frequent potholes and the Ugandan national roads authorities wonderful decision to place 'rumble strips' across the road when entering and exiting any 'built up' area it was hard to get comfortable. That coupled with our driver and guide trying to emulate Lewis Hamilton at certain points, later he would resemble Colin McRae at his rallying best as we swopped around the mountain passes but well get there soon, or soonish as we still have someway to go on what would prove to be one hell of a journey to our first nights destination.

after a quick stop for lunch we gathered ourselves now entering into what is known as 'little switzerland', the roads got narrower, the hills higher and greener and people were waving from their roadside stalls and still onwards and upwards towards the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park, yes it is as remote and serene as it sounds, however the mountain passes were now dirt roads and Richard (aka Lewis Hamilton) was now entering into his Colin McRae rally stage with gusto. He wasn't reckless but with the sides of the road dropping away to far off tea plantations that looked like a patchwork quilt stretching out into the valley's below I wasn't too comfortable with the speed of our traverse and after over 8 hours travel I think I had good reason to worry, both for him and us!

we entered the national park and were greeted by sounds of the rainforest, we were now at near on 7,000ft, the air was still, sweet, pure and a tad chilly compared to the heat of the 'day in day out' thunderstorms that we had experienced in Kampala which now seemed like a world away.

it was a tad cold at 7,000ft

our accommodation for the next two nights was at a hotel run by an NGO called bakiga lodge to act as a sustainable income generator for their fresh water programme which secured local springs for human consumption, what a great idea! the fixed tents and cabins were wonderful, with views across the lush green cultivated valleys covered in swirling wispy mist to the snow capped peaks of volcanoes in Virunga National Park in DR Congo!

falling asleep with blankets pulled up high to fight of the colder temperatures and the sounds of the wild close at hand had us dreaming of what the morning might bring, rain during the night woke us briefly and before dawn we were up, showered and ready to rumble into the jungle and to find our distant, or not so distant, relatives who had napped just across the valley.

there are only around 880 mountain gorillas left in the world and all of them inhabit the mountain ranges in Rwanda, DR Congo and thankfully for us Uganda, as that is where we had arranged to have our rendezvous with our tight knit family. only a few family groups have been introduced to humans, some for us 'tourists' to enjoy, others for research purposes. that said less that 80 people per day are able to venture into their precious domain and today some crazy intrepid explorers from england were to be three of those blessed people.

a policeman came too!

after a briefing from our guide, John, we were somewhat surprised to be joined with another ranger with a gun and a policeman who also had a gun, they were to be our protection, not as we thought from a rampaging king kong who had 'smelt the blood of an englishman' trespassing in his backyard but from the somewhat less seen but slightly more dangerous forest elephant who had made Bwindi their home after us humans had cut off their path back to the swaths of savannah which we would visit later on in the trip.

trackers had been up and out before us to find the groups of gorillas and due to the issues with my back we had been promised that we would be part of a group of 'tourists' who would be led towards the nearest group. great news I thought, however upon entering the forest we quickly found traces of huge fresh droppings, broken down trees and other mess which meant that we were now following a herd of elephants, who had inadvertently driven our family of gorillas deeper into the forest!

in total there were eight of us in our group, us three from England and five Norwegian medical students who were taking the weekend off from their time serving at a hospital in Kampala. they were great fun to be with and we were grateful of their company.

we trekked and trekked, uphill and down dale, the trees were quite sparse on the ground but created an almost unbroken canopy above us, the path was clear, due to our huge grey friends who were travelling before us. after around an hour we reached the spot where the gorillas had been sleeping the night before but after some radio contact was made with the early morning trackers we found that they were much, much, much further on so once again we trekked and trekked. it was quite fun really and apart from my back ache we were all having a wonderful time.

mama and baba walked between myself and Maz

'apparently' Maz and Emma spotted the herd of elephants off in the distance, moving away to the right, we then moved on left towards our bounty which were become ever more elusive. i'm not sure that the girls really did see the elephants but i certainly did hear the ranger behind me cock her gun (yes they let ladies have the power in Uganda!) in readiness for use and that was enough for me to think that they might have.

give me a break!

we finally made contact with our trackers and after cutting our way into some very deep undergrowth were given a final briefing by John, this was it we were given the go ahead to approach the family! the first sighted was a huge silver back, aged around 35 and previous head of the group, he was chillaxing on his back in the dappled sunlight, he didn't seem to mind one bit that we were all standing gawping at him and apparently the middle digit on his left hand was in a permanent state of full extension and we were assured that he wasn't giving us the 'middle figure' gesture that perhaps could have been his prerogative.

the leader, a huge silverback

the guides led us further off the beaten track and we soon came upon a couple of younger silverbacks who were slightly more interested in our 'happening upon them', but with a few calls (or should I say grunts) from the rangers they were put at ease. we were then introduced to a couple of mums and their babies, one of around three years the other a smaller four month old who was so cute. we spent ages just watching these females who seemed so a peace with us being there.

it's hard to describe the feelings that you have in this special space and time, I suppose 'magical' would be one word that summed it all up, another would be 'honoured'. to actually be sat right next to one of the worlds largest and most endangered mammals was something I will never forget. just the size of these creatures was inspiring, as was their care for young and each other. it truly was an amazing experience and I'm glad that I had the chance to make that happen.

with my bad back, you've got to be kidding!

soon our hour long time with our new found friends was at an end, we'd taken endless photos, a few videos, especially of a mother and baby literally brushing past Maz' leg as she (the gorilla not Maz) moved between our group. now it was time to move on and head back to base, a task easier said than done.

as we said our goodbyes to these gentle giants the midday rains came, at first it wasn't too bad, hacking our way through thick vegetation, long gone were the helpful elephants, but it soon dawned on us that this was going to be a long slow return to base and a wet one at that. even the young Norwegians seemed to tire but after a lunch break, planned but not expected we made base by about 2.15pm some five and a half hours after setting off and over three hours later than any other of the groups who had ventured to see the other families.....so much for joining the short walk group!

wow what a day.

hold still elephant we want a photo! 

early to bed and early to rise as we jumped into our trusty vehicle and made a long and winding journey zig zagging along dirt roads through tea plantations, coffee groves, small settlements high up in the mountains and seemingly miles from anywhere on towards the Queen Elizabeth National Park and hopefully sightings of tree climbing lions, who apparently frequent these savannah plains.

open sesame 

it was around noon when we reached the park gate, to the left was a road leading towards the DR Congo border, we turned right and found to our surprise the the roof of our vehicle opened up which allowed all three of us extended views across the open plains dotted with huge fig trees, a favourite haunt for the lions.

the queen elizabeth savannah

without going into further detail we didn't find the lion (well not yet!) but we did see herds of Kob, (a east african antelope that we'd never seen on previous safaris), a herd of elephants and numerous birds. the park was stunning and spread over a vast distance. 

unfortunately time didn't allow us to 'just sit' and observe the amazing vistas that were presenting themselves to us as we were 'rushing' towards a boat trip between the two smallish lakes that border the park. 

arriving at the pontoon we headed away from lake George to the larger lake Edward in search for hippo, crocodile and elephant. ever the eagle eye Maz pointed out a distant spotted hyena which the boat sped towards not wanting to disappoint the huge group of tourists who had joined us on this short cruise. we seemed to have returned to the world of man all to soon and our time with the mountain gorillas seemed very very far away.

tree climbing lion, minus his tree!

Richard, remember him, our guide, formula one rally champion, had something playing on his mind when we arrived back at shore, we were on the quest to find the tree climbing lion and that would take us further north east to the mighty and impressive rwenzori mountains. He certainly didn't disappoint not only did we find the breeding grounds of the beautiful Kob but also two male lions sitting dozing in the late afternoon sun after what must have been a delightful meal of same said Kob.

tricky jungle conditions!

we ended this long and eventful day at our final stop over at another wonderful lodge, Enganzi, which overlooked the Queen Elizabeth park and rwenzori mountains, the sunset was amazing but with another early start to end our adventure we were soon off to bed.

ahead of us was the long journey back to Kampala but we had a couple of exciting excursions along the way, firstly a gentle walk through the forests of Kyambura Gorge where we had arranged to trek chimpanzees. 

end of a happy trip

although the sightings of our nearest human primate were more limited than those we had had with the gorillas earlier in the trip, basically one lazy male high up in the tree canopy, the walk through the forest was incredible. once again it was another unspoilt part of africa and we felt so far away from civilization as the birds called their pretty songs and beautiful butterflies fluttered about us as we made our way over simple bridges and out back into the tea plantations that surround this forest.

we made it.....

now the chase was on to beat the sun and make it to the equator before sunset, this we managed with minutes to spare and with perfect conditions as we straddled the northern and southern hemispheres it was a perfect end to an awesome and once in a lifetime road trip.

thanks for the memories Uganda, we hope to see you again soon.

P.S Richard our guide was delightful, he certainly added to the trip and all in all his driving was fantastic and he only wanted to ensure that we got the most out of our time in this most amazing of places. I would highly recommend the tour company who we booked with and would be glad forward details for anyone interested.